Two views of the same place, four years apart: this is what remains of the cathedral of old Misterbianco, destroyed by the 1669 lava flow, and once more by Man, between November 1999 (when the photograph at left was taken) and October 2003 (right photograph). Known only to very few people even in the Etna area, the site lies a few kilometers to the north of the new (post-1669 eruption) Misterbianco in an area affected by uncontrolled urbanization in recent years. In 1999, the remainder of the cathedral tower rose from a small patch of 1669 lava that had been saved from construction of private homes, but four years later the scene had changed: a fence had been placed around the site, and some restoration work had been started on the ruin, but eventually the project was abandoned and things were left as they were - for an undetermined time

U' Campanarazzu, then and now (1999 and 2003)

Here we come to one of the saddest episodes of mismanagement of the Etnean territory and the local cultural and historical heritage. Saveguarding of the territory is not of highest priority to Sicilian policy-makers, and this is strongly reflected in the habits and behavior of the local population. Waste is dumped anywhere that is not someone's private property, most evident after the traditional family trips on Sundays or holidays into the nature, when garbage is found abundantly at all popular picnicking places. However, the example of "u' Campanarazzu" shows this attitude in a particularly overwhelming manner.

Location map of the "Campanarazzu" at the southern base of Etna. Inhabited areas are shown in green, and 1669 lava in pink color. The road leading from the town of Misterbianco to "u' Campanarazzu" is highlighted in yellow. The junction between the Catania-Messina and Catania-Palermo highways is marked as "Circonv." (circonvallazione). Inset shows outline of 1669 lava flow in red, and box indicates area shown in main map

"U' Campanarazzu" (the church tower, in local dialect) is actually what remains of the former town of Misterbianco, which was almost completely buried by a branch of the enormous 1669 lava flow that was emitted from the Monti Rossi eruptive center near Nicolosi, nearly 9 km away. The site was (and still is) known to very few people except for those living nearby, and even many Etna experts (scientists and non-scientists) have never seen or heard of it. Until a few years ago, the scene was the following: amidst an endless continuum of presumably mostly illegally constructed homes there was a small remaining patch of 1669 lava, from which in one place rose the stump of a church tower. This was what remained of the cathedral of old Misterbianco, constituting an emblematic picture of the effects of the devastating 1669 eruption. I visited (and, fortunately, photographed) the site in November 1999, when there was full access to the ruin and surrounding lava field. A small plate had been placed on the side of the ruin, saying "Remains of ancient Misterbianco, buried by the lava in March 1669. This commemorative tablet was placed much later by the descendants in 19.." (exact date not readable).
Sometime between late 1999 and mid-2003, a fence (made of corrugated iron sheets) was placed around the site, and some work was begun which apparently was aimed at restoring the ruins and supporting unstable portions of them. But this was made in a terribly careless manner. Concrete - a substance dearly loved and used everywhere in Sicily - was applied as one of the main components of the stabilizing structures. Then, at an unknown time, the work was interrupted and the site was abandoned for good, leaving the corrugated iron sheets to the action of wind and vandalism. The entrance to the site was left open, so that everyone (including children looking for a place to play) are free to enter and risk their safety and health. Furthermore, the place has developed into a kind of uncontrolled garbage dump. Although back in 1999 the scene was not exactly suggestive due to the nearby presence of numerous recent buildings (many of them being of debatable aesthetic value), the impressions during the 2003 visit were simply depressing. What could be a site of considerable historical and touristic value has been transformed in a symbol of the feeble-mindedness of local policy-making and the careless attitude of many of the local people toward their own historical and natural heritage.

"U' Campanarazzu" in November 1999. The building in the foreground (or what remained of it) is no longer existing, having been destroyed during the "restoration" work initiated after this photograph was taken

Left: the nave of the ancient cathedral of Misterbianco as it was in 1999. Right: destroyed in 1669 by the lava flow and again between 1999 and 2003, this time by Man, the ruin of the old cathedral stands as a symbol of irreverence of local policy-makers and inhabitants toward their own historical and natural heritage. Note the abundance of private homes in the background in both photographs

The remains of the ancient cathedral of Misterbianco as they appeared in 2003. Parts of the church tower have been supported with boulders of lava, cemented with concrete, and what remains of the nave (at right) has been "secured" with bars of iron which is now oxidizing. Given the abandonment of the restoration work, the place is now much less safe than before

Two more views of "u' Campanarazzu" showing the changes made by the incompleted "restoration" action between 1999 (left) and 2003 (right)

Wanna buy? This piece of land is for sale. Lying immediately next to what remains of "u' Campanarazzu", a small lot was cleared of 1669 lava (in the background), the foundations of a building were laid - of course, using concrete - and then the owner decided to sell it. Presently the place is essentially used as a garbage dump

Page set up on 29 January 2004, last modified on 31 January 2004